Dig in: A brief history of underground vegetables.

Photo Credit: Christina Rumpf

Much of the food we are surrounded by was once just a novelty discovery of explorers, or the curious and hungry wanderings of past humans. Some fruits and vegetables actually originated in various corners of the world, a few spanning millennia’s of history and ever-changing cultural significance. Root vegetables, along with tubers (potato technically aren’t a root, but instead a starchy nutrient concentration at the base of the roots – called tubers) have had major contributions historically in various civilizations growth and constant shifts.

In the enduring winters of Europe, stable food sources were a struggle, sometimes inexistent to secure. Today we are blessed with a global collection of various vegetables, many which do excellent in British Columbia’s climate. Where did these ingredients once originate? Farmers Markets spanning various regions of British Columbia, as well as local grocers supplying fresh produce of BC, are the connecting thread to these historical, unique beginnings. Although every food has a story, below are collections of four different vegetables currently growing seasonally in BC, and the past origins that brought them here.

Beets

Originally discovered in Eurasia and grown for its greens, the Ancient Romans, Greeks, and Egyptians were the early cultivators of beets, and regarded it very favourably. Centuries later, with numerous

varieties available (including white or black ones) Medieval Europeans began using beets extensively for food production.

Beet uses ranged from livestock food, blood and digestion remedies, pie fillings, and eventually even to being utilized as dyes, and colouring in cosmetics. PBS speculates “Today, around 20 percent of the world’s sugar comes from sugar beets”(PBS), though other sources claim it could be as high as half. An incredible alchemy contributing directly towards many of the deserts we currently consume. Beets can grow comfortably in British Columbia thanks to the climate, moisture, and the fact temperatures don’t get too hot.

Parsnips

In Europe and West Asia, the familiar parsnip had its early beginnings. During the Roman era, carrots oddly could be white, so it’s difficult to decipher in ancient writings which vegetable is truly being represented. For that reason, parsnips exact origins are still a challenge to specifically pinpoint. Garnering a favourable following historically – even past emperor Tiberius had accepted parsnips as annual tributes, and would go to considerable length to have them shipped from Germany to Rome. Before beet and cane were widely available to make sugar, parsnip was the primary sweetener, and was used for wine, beer, sugar, puddings, and marmalades.

During Medieval ages, a food that was a starch and a sugar was a rare and prized commodity, especially with honey being an expensive ingredient during those times. Parsnip had a stable place in European society for hundreds of years due to this multi-purpose use, and balanced nutrients it provided. It wasn’t until 1609 that British and French Colonists brought the parsnip to the New World, and it maintained success until other carbohydrates and sweeteners eventually became more available. Colder parts of BC produce sweeter parsnips, making it an ideal vegetable in the region today.

Rutabaga

A cross between a turnip and a wild cabbage, this mustard family root (and edible leaves) originated sometime in the late Middle Ages. The vegetable still has unproven origins, but it speculated to derive from Sweden, Finland, or Russia. Helen of The New Yorker states ‘“Rutabaga” comes from [the word] rotabagge, the plant’s Swedish name”’, and she adds that “This is, perhaps, the reason that it’s sometimes called a Swedish turnip or simply a swede.”(New Yorker)

Through the 17th century, it was a great source of food for animals during winter months, as well was a key food in Sweden at the time. Supposedly, spanning few areas of Europe, the rutabaga was used during Halloween instead of our familiar pumpkin, since this orange squash was a New World vegetable, not available during those times. It wasn’t until the 19th century that the vegetable made its eventual cross of the Atlantic, embarking to America alongside European immigrants.

Rutabaga now is a major export of Canada, proudly receiving its name – the ‘Canadian Turnip’. The vegetable, even today, is still popular in Sweden, Finland, and Norway, primarily owing to the Scandinavian long dark winters. As well, a fun fact being that Cumberland, Wisconsin today still

celebrates a rutabaga festival, with this year being their 89th season. Rutabaga grows healthy in cool and humid growing conditions, thus BC’s climate offers those environments.

Potato

A long history beginning around 8000 B.C. to 5000 B.C. has given the potato an early start in its impact on civilization. Native Incas in Peru were the first to domesticate the crop, and it wasn’t until 1536 when the Spanish eventually brought the potato back to Europe. Around a century later it made its journey once again, this time to the Colonies of North America. Surprisingly, it took many years after arrival to finally be accepted and spread all throughout Western Europe.

The spud’s eventual contribution was a sign of hope for many, as yields were very high and some regions desperately needed a new source of food during famines. The eventual success of the potato helped feed a growing population all the way to the middle of the 20th century, supposedly doubling the food supply.

Potatoes were very compatible with those taking sea voyages, as the tuber maintained its freshness for long durations, and is composed of many essential nutrients. Today, the potato is proudly the world’s fourth most important food crop, behind rice, wheat, and corn. Potatoes are the highest valued food crop for Canada, producing a yield of around one $1 billion yearly. In BC, the potato develops excellently in the cool soils and the mild frosts, thriving in these favourable conditions year after year.

BC produce spans a wide range of climate zones, enabling this Western region to an extensive fertile landscape of agriculture opportunities. With variability of temperatures, rainfalls, elevations, as well as countless other topographic factors, British Columbia is home to perhaps the most unique growing conditions within Canada. Especially during winter, root and tuber vegetables from around the world are grown successfully here; highlighting the accommodating capability BC agriculture has to these international descendants. Eating local or seasonal is a great way to connect to your province, but has the added bonus of simultaneously interacting with geography, culture, and history.

The BC Produce Marketing Association is a proud advocate and congregation of BC produce suppliers, grocers, and growers